bohemianwanderer – Italian chefs Niko Romito and Salvatore Tassa recently shared a heartfelt conversation about Italy’s food culture, focusing on the trattoria’s special role. Romito, celebrated for his three-Michelin-starred Ristorante Reale in Abruzzo, fondly recalled his first visit to Tassa’s Nu’ Trattoria Italiana dal 1960, located in Acuto near Rome. He described the trattoria’s warm, homely atmosphere and Tassa’s role as an old-school host. Tassa bridged local producers, traditions, and diners with a genuine, welcoming spirit. Romito particularly remembered a simple dish of braised onions served there. These onions left a lasting impression on him, inspiring one of his signature dishes: an “absolute” onion broth paired with parmesan-filled pasta and toasted saffron. Both chefs emphasized that everything in Italian cooking begins and ends with the quality of ingredients.
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The Power of Memorable Flavors in Everyday Eating
While traveling home on a bus, I found myself reflecting on Romito’s lingering thoughts about those onions. It reminded me of rare moments when a dish stays vividly in my mind after leaving a table. These moments differ from just liking food; they become almost intrusive thoughts. Examples include a deep-fried mashed potato and mozzarella ball from a local canteen, the rich gravy around liver and onions at a trattoria, or hazelnuts sprinkled on a salad. Even a plate of butter-flavored green beans or a honey salad dressing from months ago can haunt the senses. These memories are more than nostalgia—they spark curiosity and creative energy in the kitchen.
Combining Inspirations: Two Salads That Stay With You
This week, I decided to merge two memorable salads that lingered in my thoughts like persistent memories. One was the bitter greens and toasted hazelnut salad at Piatto Romano in Testaccio. The other was the radicchio, almond, gorgonzola, and honey salad from Bocca di Lupo in London’s Soho. Inspired by Romito’s approach of translating inspiration into practice, I recreated a version at home. I can’t claim invention, but I confirm the importance of using your hands to dress salads. Hands ensure each leaf receives an even coating of dressing, bringing every bite to life. For this salad, use a mix of crisp lettuces like romaine or little gem with softer radicchio leaves. Opt for creamy gorgonzola dolce, as it blends more harmoniously than the sharper piccante variety.
How to Prepare a Hazelnut, Gorgonzola, and Honey Salad
To prepare this salad for 2 to 4 people, start with fresh greens: one romaine or two little gems, and a small head of radicchio. Tear the leaves into bite-sized pieces after washing and drying them thoroughly. In a large bowl, whisk together 6 tablespoons of extra-virgin olive oil, 1 tablespoon of honey, 1 tablespoon of red-wine vinegar, 1 teaspoon of Dijon mustard, a teaspoon of warm water, and a pinch of salt. Adjust the balance of flavors to your liking, ensuring the dressing emulsifies smoothly. Add the greens to the dressing and toss thoroughly, using your hands for best results. Then fold in half of the toasted hazelnuts and broken gorgonzola dolce pieces. Gently toss once more.
Serving Suggestions and Final Thoughts
Once dressed, transfer the salad to a large serving plate. Scatter the remaining gorgonzola and hazelnuts on top for texture and visual appeal. Serve immediately while fresh and crisp. This salad pairs beautifully with simple bread or extra cheese on the side. It also complements roast chicken, baked potatoes, or alongside other vegetable dishes. While I imagine pairing it with deep-fried potato balls, that idea still needs some experimentation. For now, this salad is a light yet satisfying meal, perfect for sharing and savoring the balance of bitter greens, sweet honey, creamy cheese, and crunchy nuts.
